DESTINATION 3
The Quiet Days of Biarritz
There’s a quiet rhythm to Biarritz that’s hard to explain but easy to love. I’ve been coming here often over the past few years, not for the waves, or the buzz, but for the calm it offers when everything else feels a bit loud.
Introduction Photo by Maxime Levrel
I never planned on spending so much time in Biarritz, but life has its way of pulling you toward places that feel right. My mother moved there a few years ago, and since then, I’ve found myself coming back more and more often; first for visits, then for longer stays. At this point, I know the town well enough to have routines, favourite corners, little rituals. But what I love most is how different it feels from where I grew up on the French Riviera. The landscape here is greener, softer, a little moodier; it rains often, and you can see it in the mountains, in the deep colours of the sea, in the way everything feels so alive.
There’s something about the mix of ocean and hills that reminds me of home, but without the sharp edges. Biarritz feels slower. You don’t come here to do everything. You come to walk by the water, to take in the salt air, to have a long lunch somewhere where time doesn’t really matter. I like it most in the off-season. There’s still life in the streets, but the energy is calmer.
When I’m in town, I spend a lot of time walking, through the centre, near the beach, around Les Halles, or in the little streets of Beaurivage. There’s an easy rhythm to the town that I’ve come to really enjoy. I go back to the same spots often, but I also love discovering new places. The café culture here has something surfy and simple about it, but there’s real attention to detail too; good coffee, good design, local produce. Bleach Café has become a bit of a favourite for that. It’s tucked next to a creative studio and feels equal parts relaxed and considered, a sunny terrace, natural wine, a very Biarritz version of breakfast.
The shops here are lovely, especially if you like things that are quietly creative. Sunburn Store, for example, is very much in tune with the area’s identity, surf culture meets thoughtful curation, unisex clothing, good books, and the kind of objects you end up carrying home without meaning to. It’s close to Côte des Basques, which is where I usually end up in the late afternoon, just watching the waves roll in.
Outside the centre, Villa Magnan is one of those places that doesn’t feel like a hotel. It's a family house turned guesthouse, set above a quiet lake and surrounded by animals, trees, and total stillness. There’s no big signage, no rush. You just arrive, and everything slows down. The breakfast is homemade. The rooms are all different. You share the table with strangers in the morning, but somehow it feels right.
For dinner, I like places that are a bit more lively, places where the food is good, the wine flows, and you’re encouraged to share. Chéri Bibi is one of them. It’s tucked in Bibi-Beaurivage, and it always feels like there’s something happening. There’s no traditional menu, just small plates and a very good wine selection you pick yourself from the cave. Everything feels genuine and warm, like you’re at a friend’s place who happens to cook really well.
And then there’s De Puta Madre, part of the same property as Villa Magnan, but open to the public. It’s only open in the summer months, but the concept is beautiful. A chef in residence, a restored greenhouse as a kitchen, and a very thoughtful approach to food. They don’t announce the menu ahead of time; it changes weekly, based on what’s available. It’s quiet, understated, and incredibly well done.
My sister also introduced me to Ostalapia, just a bit outside Biarritz, a farmhouse overlooking the mountains where everything tastes like it was made just for you. The view is stunning, especially at sunset, and the food is generous and local.
There’s also a growing art scene I enjoy exploring when I’m here. Galerie Champ Lacombe always has something interesting going on, a mix of local and international artists, a great little book selection, and a second space in Les Landes that includes an outdoor sculpture garden. I find it comforting that a place like Biarritz, which could easily be just about the sea, is also making space for art, design, and new ideas.
Carnet d'adresses
Villa Magnan
10 Chemin de la Milady, 64200 Biarritz
Chéri Bibi
50 Rue d’Espagne, 64200 Biarritz
Ferme Ostalapia
Chemin d’Ostalapia, 64310 Ahetze (15 min from Biarritz)
Galerie Champ Lacombe
7 Rue Champ Lacombe, 64200 Biarritz
Deus Ex Machina Biarritz
58 Avenue Beau Rivage, 64200 Biarritz
Kaldera Biarritz
14 Avenue Reine Victoria, 64200 Biarritz
Sunburn Store
17 Rue de Madrid, 64200 Biarritz
Bleach Café
50 Rue d’Espagne, 64200 Biarritz
Ceramica
6 Rue d’Espagne, 64100 Bayonne (15 mins from Biarritz)
