DESTINATION 4
Rome, and a very long walk to the Sistine Chapel
Rome had been on my mind for months, not sure why, really. Just one of those stubborn little travel fixations. So I finally gave in and booked a four-day trip in November, thinking I’d get the city at its quietest. I was very wrong. Rome in November? Still absolutely packed.
Rome doesn’t do subtle. Every building feels intentional, symmetrical, dramatic, layered with history. The centre is so well-preserved it almost doesn’t feel real. No random ugly buildings ruining the view, which, let’s be honest, is rare in Europe. I stayed in Prati, close to Vatican City, which made it easy to walk everywhere and we really did walk everywhere.
The city is a constant visual experience. Statues every ten steps. Fountains carved like marble dramas. One of the most mind-blowing views was from the rooftop at Oro Bistrot, not so much for the restaurant vibe (a bit underwhelming), but for the terrace. You get a front-row seat to the Altare della Patria, possibly one of the most over-the-top but spectacular buildings I’ve ever seen. Built for Victor Emmanuel II, it’s pure power architecture.
You don’t go to Rome to diet. Let’s get that out of the way. I knew I’d eat pasta every day, and I did, no r(a)egrets. What I love most is how effortlessly good the food is in the most unassuming places. One of my favourites this time was Osteria da Fortunata, where the pasta is handmade in front of you and the tonnarelli cacio e pepe is dangerously addictive. It’s not exactly low-key, but it’s popular for a reason.
Another spot I loved was Casa Coppelle. It’s one of those cosy, velvet-seat kind of places where the lighting is soft, the service is warm, and everything tastes like someone’s nonna is in the kitchen (but in a polished, fashion-editor-who-moved-to-Rome kind of way). Not too far from there is the courtyard at Hotel de Russie, which is probably one of the prettiest places for a long lunch or aperitivo, we sat in their indoor greenhouse-style space for dinner and it felt like being inside an old-world film set, with very good cocktails.
For coffee, I tried chasing down a decent matcha but Rome is not Seoul, and I gave up quickly. That said, I loved stopping by La Ménagère, technically a Florentine brand, but they’ve opened in Rome with their concept-store-meets-café format. Great for a quiet tea break and a browse.
If you’re a design lover and want to mix your coffee break with a bit of visual inspiration, Caffè Doria is a perfect escape. Tucked inside the Doria Pamphilj Gallery, it feels more like a secret salon than a café. Think antique frames, golden light, and quiet palace energy, it’s not every day you sip cappuccino surrounded by 17th-century masterpieces.
Another recent favourite is the bar at La Minerva Hotel, redesigned by Hugo Toro. I’m a bit obsessed with everything he’s doing right now, and this space is no exception. The mix of textures, the palette, the custom details, it’s just stunning. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to stay for hours, even if you’re just ordering a drink. A beautiful spot for a slow afternoon, especially if you're in the mood to romanticise your life just a little.
If you’re looking for a modern café that still feels elegant and well-designed, Barnum Café near Campo de’ Fiori is a solid choice. It has a relaxed, creative vibe, great natural light, and a menu that leans more international, but without feeling too try-hard. Definitely one of the better daytime spots in the city when you want to work, write, or just take a proper pause.
Rome isn’t really known for its concept stores or cutting-edge galleries, not in the way Paris or Seoul might be, but when you know where to look, there’s a lot to love. Between all the ancient architecture and chaotic crowds, you can still find a few spots that feel thoughtful, curated, and genuinely inspiring.
One of my favourite stops this trip was the Ferrari Ready-to-Wear boutique on Via Tomacelli. As a longtime Formula 1 fan, I’ve always had a soft spot for the brand, so seeing the full fashion collection up close was a real treat. This isn’t just sporty merch with a logo slapped on; the pieces are sleek, minimal, and surprisingly elegant. The bags, the tailoring, even the shoes, everything feels sharp and elevated, like proper fashion with just the right amount of F1 edge. Plus, the boutique itself is beautiful. Clean lines, great lighting, and a very refined energy. They only have a handful of these stores in the world, so it felt like a little design pilgrimage.
A few minutes away, there’s Poltrona Frau Roma (Via Alessandro Manzoni, 51), an interior design showroom that’s worth stopping by if you love design. It’s understated and elegant, and everything inside is just perfectly made. It’s one of those spaces that reminds you how much Italian brands value craftsmanship and timelessness.
For more classic design inspiration, Galleria Lorcan O’Neill (Vicolo dei Catinari, 3) is a beautiful gallery tucked away in a quiet alley. They show international artists in a space that feels more like a hidden apartment than a white cube, which somehow fits Rome perfectly.
There’s also the MAXXI Museum (Via Guido Reni, 4A), if you’re up for something more modern. The building itself is by Zaha Hadid, and it’s probably one of the few places in Rome that feels truly contemporary. Even if you’re not into every exhibition, the space alone is worth a visit; all curves, light, and sharp contrasts.
There’s no way around it, if you’re in Rome, you’re probably going to end up at the Vatican Museums. And yes, it’s worth it. The art is incredible, the architecture is stunning, and stepping into St. Peter’s Basilica feels surreal no matter how many photos you’ve seen of it.
That said, nothing quite prepares you for the 7km obstacle course that is the journey to the Sistine Chapel. I don’t know who designed this route, possibly a sadist, or someone with a very specific idea of penance, but by the time you actually reach Michelangelo’s ceiling, you're not so much in awe as you are mildly dehydrated and deeply resentful.
It’s hallway after hallway after hallway, gallery after gallery after gallery, and while most of them are breathtaking, by hour two you start to wonder if you’ve accidentally joined a marathon. There’s no exit, no shortcuts, and the crowd moves like a slow, overheated river. You can’t even pretend to pace yourself. You’re just… in it.
But then, just as you’re about to lose all hope, there it is. The Sistine Chapel. And yes, it is extraordinary. Not just the ceiling, but the fact that somehow, thousands of people silently shuffle into this room, collectively craning their necks in the same direction, absorbing one of the most iconic works of art in the world, while being sternly told “no photos” every 30 seconds.
Would I recommend it? Yes. Once. Maybe twice if you’re feeling spiritually inclined and well-rested. Just wear comfortable shoes, pack patience, and mentally prepare for the world’s most beautiful queue.
